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Forum: General Discussion

Topic: PVC Pipe Light stand with facade - Page: 2

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djrenee wrote :
Paul you need to speak American English. We don't use millimeters unless you are talking about a 9 millimeter


Or are a mechanic, lol.


The PVC isn't really the issue, it is the wall thickness and the quality/density of it. PVC would hold better than conduit...metal wouldn't be a bad idea but you have to worry about with the extra weight of the metal plus the lights it ripping out of the PVC you hook it to over time. running a Dowell rod through them isn't a bad idea, but I would run one through the ones connecting to your "truss" as well for extra rigidity. Then you could use metal corners instead of the plastic ones in place at the top where the truss would mount and drill into that. The main purpose is to be cheap, light and effective correct? This way should be fairly cheap, pretty damn light and be more effective than just straight PVC.







Michael
 
Thanks for the comments everyone and the suggestions!

I built the light stand with 4' 1 1/4" pvc uprights with a 4' 1" pipe inside to make it adjustable with pins to a make height of 8' The top part of the light stand is 53" long 1" pipe with a piece of 3/4" emt inside it for strength. This is all attached to the facade with "T" fittings and the whole thing is then attached to the dj table with removable pins. So far it seems to be working well.

Pictures to come!!!
 
 
Wow thats pretty cool, nothing like doing it yourself for a fraction of the price!
 
There you go mate................






Looks good :)
 
looks real good, cleight. thanks for sharing your idea and design.

T
 
Thank you djtouchdan for posting my pictures on the forums, I appreciate it.

Thank you everyone for the compliments, I have changed the design just a little bit since those pictures, instead of the poles for the light stand going straight to the floor they are now attached to the facade at the bottom using two "t" fittings. I will post more pictures later once it is completely painted.
 
Thats pretty cool..
Well done..
I'd be a little concerned about the 'tipping over factor', but as long as you dont put too much weight on the top you should be fine!
 
go to you tube and look up Tyrone Blue now thats a Facade
 
Fuskit wrote :
djrenee wrote :
Paul you need to speak American English. We don't use millimeters unless you are talking about a 9 millimeter


Or are a mechanic, lol.


The PVC isn't really the issue, it is the wall thickness and the quality/density of it. PVC would hold better than conduit...metal wouldn't be a bad idea but you have to worry about with the extra weight of the metal plus the lights it ripping out of the PVC you hook it to over time. running a Dowell rod through them isn't a bad idea, but I would run one through the ones connecting to your "truss" as well for extra rigidity. Then you could use metal corners instead of the plastic ones in place at the top where the truss would mount and drill into that. The main purpose is to be cheap, light and effective correct? This way should be fairly cheap, pretty damn light and be more effective than just straight PVC.

Michael




Good call Mike, I should've mentioned that I used schedule 40 PVC to make mine. It is much more durable and rigid than the typical & cheaper version, Schedule 80. From what I can tell from the pics he is using Schedule 40. Great work! You should've done a YouTube video like I did. Many people would find this to be a great idea.

Here is a link to my video...




DJ RuDe


Keep Spinnin'!!
 
So do you have any pics of the finished product with the material on it? I'm dying to see the outcome...


DJ RuDe
 
 
for cleight...
 
Awesome! Can't wait to see the vid and finished product!


DJ RuDe


Keep Spinnin'!!
 
Actually, Schedule 80 is the thicker one.
 
Damn.. I'm almost thinking of trying this.. :-)
 
CRashster wrote :
Actually, Schedule 80 is the thicker one.


Lol, I knew this. I actually meant to use Schedule 40 over Schedule 20. My bad, but if you can use schedule 80 it is thicker and more sturdy... I personally used 40 and it is fine...


DJ RuDe
 
DJRudeDoGG wrote :
CRashster wrote :
Actually, Schedule 80 is the thicker one.


Lol, I knew this. I actually meant to use Schedule 40 over Schedule 20. My bad, but if you can use schedule 80 it is thicker and more sturdy... I personally used 40 and it is fine...


DJ RuDe



The only reason I know is that I work for an electrical supply house and handle it everyday. Before that, I wouldn't have had a clue.

CRash
 
Which supply house do you work for? I was an account executive for Westport Apparatus/Breaker Supply in Orange County, CA. I made contact with nearly every supply house in the country. I'm also an electrician which really helped since most people who work in the supply biz aren't.


DJ RuDe
 


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